The Canali Autumn Winter 2013 collection, while remaining an expression of the brand’s deeply Italian soul, embraces international echoes and suggestions: against the backdrop of Saint Petersburg’s western taste and the opulence of its architecture the light of a winter’s day is slowly dawning over Russia’s most European city. Fairytale landscapes and atmospheres become rarefied by notes of colour.
Echoes and citations – Gogol, Mark Rothko and Sonia Delaunay – are transformed into the sartorial volume of a parade overcoat, into the deep, precious colours of the velvet jackets, into the refined rigour of the doublebreasted suits, into the luxurious silk patterns of scarves and waistcoats, and into the warm but stern softness of a fur lining.
It is the expression of a composite but self-assured elegance, in which once strict codes are now little more than a refined game through which to express the original personality of a man who is both a little retro and a little avant-garde.
Sophisticated and exclusive fabrics – cashmere, silk, casentino and bouclé -appear in classic brown, blue and grey, combined with deep shades of violet, brick and dark red, or the mineral colours of petrol blue, teal and malachite.
The single and double-breasted suits are slim and comfortable, yet the overcoat is the collection’s undisputed protagonist: striking and ample in wool, silk and mink inlays, or in soft boiled wool with Art Deco designs, or in a military style with the haughty luxury of an astrakhan collar.
All this and a series of crocodile accessories suggest luxury as the main ingredient of an elegant collection that bring back memories of a past where men too were wearing clothes as the expression of their status.