“For Fall/Winter 2017, we found inspiration in the fearlessness and irreverence of Katharine Hepburn’s character in The Philadelphia Story. Her outdoor glamour combined with a confident femininity creates a modern take on the familiar style of my own roots in Philadelphia. We played with the idea of Fair Isle knits, barn jackets and winter whites and thought about contrast, creating variations on a theme: plaid tweeds, prints and enlarged in shearling. Accessories complete the story, from bow shoes and soft men’s briefcases to a pendant necklace inspired by my father’s cigarette lighter.”— Tory Burch
Silhouettes: The collection fuses masculine and feminine elements, evoking Philadelphia’s chic outdoor glamour. A blouse with an exaggerated bow tops menswear-inspired pants with a refined fit; a sporty bomber is paired with a pleated skirt. Sweaters, from Fair Isle to cardigans, have a nostalgic appeal, but the play on proportion is relevant for today. Eveningwear—jumpsuits and easy long-sleeved gowns— epitomizes tomboy chic.
Palette: Winter white and black complement a warm palette of golden age, classic camel, rust, port, grassland green as well as touches of a bold blue.
Prints & Patterns: Old-school checks and plaids balance chintz-style florals, and a whimsical ballerina print references the works of Edgar Degas at The Barnes Foundation in Philadelphia.
Fabrications: Classic materials are updated with an unexpected twist. A plaid is interpreted in different ways, from wool to shearling to silk threaded with lurex yarn. Floral appliques, corduroy strips, pearl buttons and oversized monograms, inspired by Tory’s father, Buddy, bring rich texture to traditional materials, like tweed, silk and velvet.
Accessories: Prints and fabrications carry through to accessories. Elegant heels take on menswear-inspired details, like loafer-like fringe and broguing, while an unstructured briefcase is printed with the first stanza of Ithaka—an homage to Tory’s family history. Delicate earrings and industrial rings round out the collection.
Set: The set features a modern take on a classic parquet floor inlaid with ivory, a nod to the film’s interiors. The handpainted tiles play with scale and offer a graphic backdrop for the collection.
Beauty: A natural face with a fresh glow and a soft smoky eye is framed by hair parted down the middle and loosely tied with velvet ribbon, highlighting the collection’s effortless mood.
Music: The runway music, produced by Michel Gaubert, nods to the optimistic spirit of Valentine’s Day, with The xx’s “I Dare You” and “Lips” and Roxy Music’s “More Than This.”